Well, it's been 12 days and we are still in Diu. We've covered a lot of ground on this trip and it feels good to unpack our bags for a bit. It really is a wonderful place to stay for a while. I feel that this must be what its like to live in a small town. There are only a few dozen travelers on the whole island and since most, like us, have been here for a while we've gotten to know quite a few of them. So, everyday we bump into each other about town. We'll ask about each others plans for the day, maybe recommend a restaurant, or make plans to get together later for coffee or ice cream. And speaking of, there's a place called Ram Vijay thats been around for 75 years that has the best homemade ice cream. It's definately a part of our daily rounds. They also make their own soda. Yo and the owner are always discussing crazy new combinations for ice cream floats. Today was lime soda with mango ice cream.
The island is only 7 miles long so it's easy to bike around in a couple of hours. Yesterday while I was biking through some of the island's villages, kids would chase after me, helping to push my bike up hills or trying to race me on their own bikes. There's a traditional fishing village on the other side of the island. I felt like I had gone back in time as I sat there watching them mend their nets, dry fish, and repair their wooden boats.
Every morning on the way to breakfast we check in on these newborn puppies to see if they have gotten any bigger or cuter. Every evening a family of four peacocks climbs up a hill behind our guesthouse. Life is good here. The only time the peace of the island is disturded is on weekends when the Indian tourists arrive. It's the only place in the state where its legal to drink alcohol and without a history(nor a tolerence)for alcohol use, it's not always a pretty sight.
We had an incident the other day that could have ruined the whole trip. We were visiting the old Portugese fort that's surrounded by water on three sides. Yo was of course taking photos of her teddy bear, Kumako. She had Kumako sitting on the end of a cannon when a gust of wind knocked Kumako off and over the 40 feet wall. I've never seen Yo so upset. She ran out of the castle. A female employee chased after her, probably wondering what could have happened. We were able to climb over a wall and access the outer castle wall. Luckily it was low tide so Kumako didn't fall into the water. She wasn't hurt, but was not happy. Yo said afterwards, "I was so paniced, I didn't know what to do. My mind turned to white." It's never boring traveling with Yo.
-Shawn

one night, he appeared to my dream and he sung a love song in hindi for me and we ate sushi together on the moon shaped like a banana. he smelled like a young papaya on the tree. since then he is my own fantasy world's prince. is that wrong?

yoshimi

I know it seems a bit ridiculous to complain about people being too nice, but I've never met people as friendly as those here in Gujarat. Usually in India if I'm approached with a hearty, "HELLO!", I get the feeling that this is someone hoping seperate me from my money. However here people are just generally interested in talking to us, knowing our names, where we're from, telling us about their relatives in the States. They always want to know how Yo and I met, being from different countries. And always laugh when I tell them that Yo was one of my students when I taught in Japan. The other day I hiked up to an old fort overlooking Junagadh city. Once inside I was surrounded by a huge group of school kids on a field trip. The principal pushed his way to the front, polished off his English, and explained to me that they were from a rural school a few hours from the city. He introduced me to the other teachers and then had all the students line up(boys in one line, girls in another)to each have a chance to shake my hand. They were really sweet. One of the girls screamed when I tried to shake her hand and after that all the rest of the girls were too scared. Afterwards the principal pulled out a notebook and asked for my autograph. He then held it up in the air and everyone applauded. It was a surreal experience.
The problem is that Indians often have a very different sense of space and privacy. At a restaurant we might have a small army of waiters, busboys, cooks, and dishwashers staring at us(mostly at Yo)while we are eating. At an internet cafe the guy sitting next to me will spend the whole time there staring openly at my screen, even going so far as to ask me questions about the emails I am reading and writing. Unless we are in our hotel room there is no escape from the masses. We both needed a break. That is why we have come to Diu.
Dui is a small island(only about 7 miles long)off the southern coast of Gujatat. Like Goa, it is a former Portugese colony, so the beer and wine flow freely(unlike the rest of the state, which is dry). Except for a bottle of wine we had at Christmas, this has been the first alcohol we've had since we left Egypt 5 weeks ago. There is a small town here and hardly any traffic. The people and the place in general is super mellow. The food is excellent(Indian with a Portugese twist), especially the seafood. We've met some great travelers who's trips have come to a screeching halt here at Diu. I have a feeling that we might be joining them for a while.
-Shawn

We've now been in Gujarat state for two weeks. We've been to most states in India and I'd have to say this one of my favorites. I don't really understand why more travelers don't come here. Its conveniently located between Delhi and Mumbai(Bombay). It's got some great sites and the people are incredibly friendly.
Today I hiked up Girnar Hill. They may call it a hill, but it looked and felt more like a mountain to me. It's a site sacred to both Hindus and Jains. Jainism is an offshoot of Hinduism that believes in nonviolence toward all living things. They are hardcore vegetarians(no dairy products even) and some Jains have been know to walk with a broom that they sweep in front of them so as to not accidently step on an insect. There are ten thousand steps leading to the top of Girnar Hill(every 50th step was numbered). And I was not alone on a single one of those steps. I was joined by thousands and thousands of others. It was like going on a hike with a whole football stadium of people. Today wasn't a holiday so I assume that this many people must climb the mountain everyday. Most people were barefoot, the well-equiped wore flip flops. There wasn't one second on the 5 hour hike that I wasn't surrounded by dozens of people. Everytime I would stop I'd be joined by people curious to see what I was eating or drinking. Most would just stare, but usually someone would come forward and ask, "What is the name of your village?" I wasn't sure how to answer. "America(I guess)." Then someone would yell, "George Bush!" Why must they always bring up his name. Can't they mention someone else: Madonna, Michael Jordan, even Paris Hilton would be an improvement. But at least its better than what a German guy told us. Every time he says where he is from, someone usually responds with, "Hitler!"
It was a real festive atmosphere on the hike. People were singing, babies were crying, women wore blightly colored saris, and men carried radios listening to The India/Australia cricket match. Old people sitting in hammocks slung to a bamboo pole were carried up the mountain by porters. At the top there was a temple. When I finally got there, I rang the bell and made a 10 rupee(25 cent)offering. The Hindu priest seemed pleased and gave me a coconut. On the way down I shook hundreds of hands. I felt like a politician. All in all it wasn't a very peaceful day, but it was an interesting cultural experience.
-Shawn

on Janurary 15th my gram turned eighty. I really wished we could be there for her. she still rides a bike to go to her field, and she eats what she grows in her field. i called her in japan to wish her a happy birthday and asked her "how you feel about turning 80?" she says "I feel like I'm young again!". look at her in the photo, she's drinking a tiny glass of beer and her cheeks are pink...so cute!(my sister sent it to me). she is so special to me. i'm excited to go to hot spring with her, when i go back to japan in march. i love her very very much and i can't wait to see her soon.

yoshimi