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Conquistadors


 Girnar Hill(Junagadh, India)
 


We've now been in Gujarat state for two weeks. We've been to most states in India and I'd have to say this one of my favorites. I don't really understand why more travelers don't come here. Its conveniently located between Delhi and Mumbai(Bombay). It's got some great sites and the people are incredibly friendly.
Today I hiked up Girnar Hill. They may call it a hill, but it looked and felt more like a mountain to me. It's a site sacred to both Hindus and Jains. Jainism is an offshoot of Hinduism that believes in nonviolence toward all living things. They are hardcore vegetarians(no dairy products even) and some Jains have been know to walk with a broom that they sweep in front of them so as to not accidently step on an insect. There are ten thousand steps leading to the top of Girnar Hill(every 50th step was numbered). And I was not alone on a single one of those steps. I was joined by thousands and thousands of others. It was like going on a hike with a whole football stadium of people. Today wasn't a holiday so I assume that this many people must climb the mountain everyday. Most people were barefoot, the well-equiped wore flip flops. There wasn't one second on the 5 hour hike that I wasn't surrounded by dozens of people. Everytime I would stop I'd be joined by people curious to see what I was eating or drinking. Most would just stare, but usually someone would come forward and ask, "What is the name of your village?" I wasn't sure how to answer. "America(I guess)." Then someone would yell, "George Bush!" Why must they always bring up his name. Can't they mention someone else: Madonna, Michael Jordan, even Paris Hilton would be an improvement. But at least its better than what a German guy told us. Every time he says where he is from, someone usually responds with, "Hitler!"
It was a real festive atmosphere on the hike. People were singing, babies were crying, women wore blightly colored saris, and men carried radios listening to The India/Australia cricket match. Old people sitting in hammocks slung to a bamboo pole were carried up the mountain by porters. At the top there was a temple. When I finally got there, I rang the bell and made a 10 rupee(25 cent)offering. The Hindu priest seemed pleased and gave me a coconut. On the way down I shook hundreds of hands. I felt like a politician. All in all it wasn't a very peaceful day, but it was an interesting cultural experience.
-Shawn

Posted by KUMAKO at 10:33 AM - 2 Comments   Add a Comment  
 
 Happy 80th Birthday Grandma!!!
 



on Janurary 15th my gram turned eighty. I really wished we could be there for her. she still rides a bike to go to her field, and she eats what she grows in her field. i called her in japan to wish her a happy birthday and asked her "how you feel about turning 80?" she says "I feel like I'm young again!". look at her in the photo, she's drinking a tiny glass of beer and her cheeks are pink...so cute!(my sister sent it to me). she is so special to me. i'm excited to go to hot spring with her, when i go back to japan in march. i love her very very much and i can't wait to see her soon.

yoshimi
Posted by KUMAKO at 10:07 AM - 2 Comments   Add a Comment  
 

 A Day in the Life (Ahmedabad, India)
 


A friend from Portland recently asked, "What the hell do you guys do all day?"
It's a good question. If you've never been on vacation for more than a couple of weeks, than you may wonder what it's like to travel for six months or more. Well, it's a lot less busy than you'd think, except for travel days which are long(yesterday we arrived in Ahmedabad after a 42 hour train ride), hard, and often complicated. Most of are days, once we get settled, are bit like weekends at home: we run a few errands(post office, bank, internet) and the rest of the time we just hang out. Usually first stop after getting up(not too early, not too late)is to a shop selling lassi yogurt drinks, which protect the stomach from the the Indian germs lerking everywhere. Then it's on to breakfast. This week in Varanasi every morning we ate at a place run by a German guy that employs graduates from a school for street kids that he set up. We usually have a look through an English language newspaper while eating. Headline in this week's Hindustan Times, "Obama stuns Hillary in Iowa!" The paper usually also keeps us up to date with all the new Brittney Spears drama. After breakfast I might go for a hike or rent a bike. Yo usually spends the day walking around taking photos. We get together later in the afternoon for some fresh squeezed juice(usually pomegranate) and stop by our favorite tea shop. We like to frequent the same shops everyday. The owners are not used to having travelers as regular customers, so it's a good chance to get to know some local people.
I spend a lot of time reading. This trip I've reread some of my old favorites: Desert Solitaire, The Razor's Edge, and Wind, Sand, & Stars. Yo's been bogged down this past month or so with Dostoevsky's The Brothers Karamozov. Sometimes we'll read the same book at the same time(her's in Japanese, mine in English) and discuss it as we go along.
We tend to break down chores in a traditional manner, not because we are traditionalists, but because that's what we each like to and are good at doing. I mostly do the transportation, logistics, and financial stuff. Yo mostly does laundry, shops for fruit and snacks, and scopes out the best rooms for us. She's a hardcore master bargainer. She often negotiates a price so low that I feel sorry for the locals and slip them a few extra rupees when Yo isn't looking.
We also spend a fair amount of time hanging out with other travelers. We've met some great people on this trip: this past week we've met a Spanish guy who works for an NGO that sets up microloans for Bangladeshis to buy instead of endlessly renting their cycle rickshaws, a British couple who patiently explained to us the rules of cricket(by far the most popular sport in India), unfortunately we still don't understand, and a couple from Spain who come to India each winter to buy clothes to sell at their shop back home and to put on puppet shows at Indian schools(see photo).
Overall it's not a bad life, and the days seem to past at just the right pace.
-Shawn
Posted by KUMAKO at 3:29 AM - 3 Comments   Add a Comment  
 

 This Is My Karma
 

hi! do you remember me? i'm Kumako, the traveling bear! (yoshimi carries me every where she goes)
varanasi is a crazy place. today i was walking by the river and this indian man says to me, "hey, check out this basket!" so i did and all of sudden, he pushed me in and then started playing the flute.



i felt something crawl around my neck...oh my gosh! i don't even want to talk about it. i still remember the cold feeling of its skin...it was a snake that climbed up and tied around my neck and it slowly began choking me. i got panicked!



i looked at the man, but he kept playing the flute. many people gathered around and starting throwing money at us.
basically he used me for "his performance"(just because i'm cute!!!). i feel so cheap, like the bear on the bicycle in the circus.



i guess i made a lot money for him and he appreciated my help, so he asked his friend to take me on the ganges river boat trip...the sun was just setting and the lighting was so nice.
i was happy that i helped the snakecharmer and made him some money.
BUT NO MORE SNAKE NECKLACES FOR ME!

With Love,
Kumako

Posted by KUMAKO at 11:26 AM - No Comments   Add a Comment  
 

 Happy New Year!!! Varanasi, India
 

animals, animals, animals...there are so many different kinds of animals here...they're so funny!

we call them "mohapi", they got a mohawk on their head to back.


i guess it's poppie season now, we see poppies fight over mama's milk every where!



look! this nice family...they're such a mellow people.



don't you think he looks like hindi saddhu? he loves eating posters!



he can untie the bag...what a smart dude!



the cows here are huuuuuge, and so many of them on the street. and their eyes are so peaceful.



goats on the ghat, you can see many of them taking a nap.

yoshimi
Posted by KUMAKO at 11:01 AM - 2 Comments   Add a Comment  
 
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